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Finger Lakes

2013 Finger Lakes Riesling Vintage — They Did It Again


On September 27, 2014, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (“FLWA”) sponsored its annual virtual tasting on Twitter for members of the wine media (using the term very generously in my case) interested in trying the new vintage of Finger Lakes rieslings. I have long been an advocate of the Finger Lakes as an under appreciated wine region, particularly with regard to its rieslings. A look back through my blog entries will reveal many posts discussing Finger Lakes wineries and their prior vintages. Although I am sometimes hesitant to accept samples for fear of then having to write about the wines, I am never hesitant with submissions from the Finger Lakes. The four sample bottles that the FLWA provided this year again showed the consistent quality and wonderful variety of styles available throughout the region. I would recommend any of the four wines I review below, depending on where and how you plan to enjoy them.

Though I will only write about the four wines I tried here, the best way to learn about the vintage may be to read the entire 2013 Vintage Riesling Launch #FLXRiesling Hour transcript, which FLWA has been kind enough to post. It contains not only my posts from @ilove2drinkwine, but tweets from numerous wine aficionados and the wineries themselves. The Q&As between the tasters and the wineries are fascinating. To get the full effect, I would suggest reading in chronological order (which means scrolling down a long way up front). You can also go back in time on my Twitter feed.

The 2013 Finger Lakes growing year was wet in June and July, which slowed the ripening process. But a dry August/September helped to create a successful vintage. As for my wines, they ranged from Dry to Semi-Dry, though even the dry wines contained a bit of residual sugar. This set of wines demonstrate the variety that different climate conditions create even within the region, as well as the effects that different stylistic decisions within the winery can have on the final product. I’ll summarize each wine quickly below, though taking the time to read the Twitter exchange linked to above is really the best way to learn about these wines, particularly through the comments of those who made them.

2013 Hosmer Dry Riesling: Hosmer Winery began as a grape farm in the early 1970s. The winery opened in 1985 and is located on the west bank of Cayuga Lake. Hosmer’s riesling vines range from 25-30 years old and grow in Cazenovian soils. Hosmer’s 2013 Dry Riesling is pretty dry at 7g/L residual sugar and has 8.2 g/L total acidity. It shows aromas of pineapple and green apple with some tropical notes. These tropical notes remain on the front end when tasting the wine, but give way to strong, tart lemon and lime on the back end. The wine as good acidity and is well balanced — very enjoyable wine. 88 points.

2013 Glenora Dry Riesling: Glenora Wine Cellars was the first winery on Seneca Lake. Founded on 1977, it is just 8 miles north of Watkins Glen, NY. Its 2013 Dry Riesling clocks in pretty dry, but twice as sweet as the Hosmer, at 14 g/l. It’s a bit less acidic at 7.2 g/L total acidity. The aromas on the Glenora are subtle, but there are hints of apple, honey, and that characteristic Riesling petroleum. It shows apple, apricot, pineapple, and melon flavors, with medium acidity and a bot smoother mouth feel than the Hosmer. Lovely wine. 87 points, $14.99 per bottle.

2013 Chateau Lafayette Reneau Dry Riesling: If I had to pick a winner for the tasting, this would be it for me. CLR was founded in the mid-1980s on the Southeast side of Seneca Lake by Dick and Betty Reno after vacationing in the Finger Lakes and deciding to retire there. In Fall 2013, the owners of Glenora and Knapp Winery & Vineyards purchased CLR with the hope of maintaining the legacy started by the Renos. The 2013 Dry Riesling come sin at 1.1% residual sugar and .86 g/L total acidity. It is very light and pale (almost colorless), with aromas of apple and honey with hints of dried fruits and petroleum. The palate starts with crisp, tart apple. Then the residual sugar and citrus emerges — the balance of acidity and sweetness is wonderful. 89 points, $14.99/bottle.

2013 Swedish Hill Riesling: Swedish Hill is one of the largest wineries in the Finger Lakes and is owned and operated by the Peterson family. Its 2013 Riesling was the sweetest of the 4 wines that I tasted, clocking in at 2.4% residual sugar and 7.65 g/L total acidity. It, too, had a light, pale straw color. It was the only wine of the 4 where the classic Riesling petroleum aroma hit me immediately. The wine has flavors of peaches and apples, with some tropical notes. The sweetness balances well with the acidity, and this would be the perfect wine to have with a fruit tray. 87 points.

A Sampling of the 2012 Class of Finger Lakes Rieslings

Every year the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (“FLWA”) sponsors a virtual tasting on Twitter for members of the wine media (using the term very generously in my case) interested in trying some of the new vintage of Finger Lakes rieslings. As anyone who reads this blog with any frequency knows, I have long been an advocate of the Finger Lakes as an under appreciated wine region, particularly with regard to its rieslings. The five sample bottles that the FLWA was kind enough to send this year again showed the consistent quality available throughout the region. If you want to check out the tweets from the virtual tasting, you can search for the hashtag #FLXWineVT.

One noteworthy comment from the winemakers during the tasting is the trend toward drier rieslings, a trend driven at least in part by consumer preference. This trend was reflected in the tasting I participated in this year, with 4 of the 5 wines labeled as dry with only one semi-dry offering. As usual, the wines were of high quality, an excellent demonstration of the quality rieslings regularly produced by this region. If you have never tried a Finger Lakes riesling and you are looking for something new, one of these five wines would be a good place to start.

Three Brothers Wineries & Estates 2012 Stoney Lonesome Zero Degree Dry Riesling — Aromas of tart citrus, petroleum, and hints of honey. 0.15% residual sugar and 11% ACV. Very light, pale color. High acidity, with subtle flavors of limes, tart pineapple and orange. Hints of minerality. 86, $14.00 per bottle.

Dr. Frank 2012 Dry Riesling — Petrol on the nose, even at this young age. 0.65% residual sugar and 11.6 % ABV. Medium to high acidity, dry wine with flavors of orange peel, lemon, with floral notes and hints of white stones. Tart, but not overwhelmingly so. A bit on the powerful side, so pair wisely, it may overwhelm lighter cheeses/dishes. 89, $14.99 per bottle.

Thirsty Owl 2012 Riesling — Subtle aromas of peach and apricot with a light golden color. High acidity. 1.6% residual sugar and 11.3% ABV. Very fruit forward, which gives an impression of additional sweetness. Flavors of peaches, nectarines, apricots, and hints of pineapple/citrus. A completely different style from the last two, but very enjoyable. 89, Appx. $14.95 per bottle.

Hosmer 2012 Dry Riesling — Intriguing nose of petroleum and barnyard that should only get more interesting with age. 2.5% residual sugar and 11.8% ABV. Light pale color with an immediate hit of high acidity and flavors of lime and tart citrus. Almost a more intense version of the Three Brothers. 88, $15.00 per bottle.

McGregor 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling — Subtle aromas of lemon and petroleum. 3.0% residual sugar and 11% ABV. Semi-sweet, high-but-not-overpwoering acidity, and fruit-forward. To me, no particular fruit stands out, but that does not detract from the enjoyment. 87, $17.99 per bottle.

A Final Review of the 2011 Finger Lakes Vintage: Sheldrake Point and Dr. Frank

This is the last in a series of posts that I have done reviewing examples of 2011 rieslings from the Finger Lakes that were provided to me in a sample pack by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance. You can read and compare my prior posts on these wines here, here, and here. Overall, as major wine publications are beginning to realize, the Finger Lakes rieslings offer high quality and exceptional value. So, here is the disclaimer: I received the wines reviewed in the post and six others as a free sample package from the FLWA. I promised no positive reviews, or any reviews at all, in exchange for these bottles. Today’s samples are from Sheldrake Point Vineyards and Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars.

Sheldrake Point is located on the Western shore of Cayuga Lake. The vineyard is on a slope between two gorges, which contain glacier soils for excellent drainage. Sheldrake planted its first vinifera grapes in 1997. The winery has won numerous awards for its red and white wines dating back to 2002. Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2011 Dry Riesling clocks in at 11.4% ABV and 0.9% residual sugar. This residual sugar and its fruit forward nature give it more of an off-dry impression. The wine has aromas of citrus and melon with hints of petroleum and mild floral notes. It has a high acidity, but is well balanced, with flavors of melons, limes, and hints of pineapple. This is a good choice for a white wine to satisfy both sweet and dry wine drinkers. Sheldrake’s 2011 Dry Riesling has received 89 points from Wine Enthusiast and 90 points from Wine & Spirits, and is a solid value at its price. , $16 per bottle.

Regular readers of this blog will be familiar with Dr. Frank wines. The vineyard overlooks Keuka Lake, and you can read more about the history of this producer here. Dr. Frank’s 2011 Dry Riesling has won numerous awards. The wine has subtle aromas of apples and pineapples, with hints of bananas and petroleum. It is a crisp, high acidity wine, with flavors of lemon, orange, and sour apples. It has a long finish of tingly citrus. Although the 2011 vintage appears to be sold out already, you can shop all of Dr. Franks’ current offerings online here, appx. $16 per bottle.

Sheldrake Point Vineyards
7448 County Road #153
Ovid, NY 14521
(607) 532-9401
Twitter: @Sheldrake Point

Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars
9749 Middle Road
Hammondsport, NY 14840
Twitter: @DrFrankWine

Recent Tastings

Two more quality entries from the Finger Lakes’ 2011 Riesling vintage (see here and here) and a solid Virginia Cabernet Franc:

Knapp Winery 2011 Riesling, Finger Lakes, NY — Semi-sweet wine with a nose of tropical fruit salad. Bright, medium to high acidity with a slightly heavy mouth feel owing to the 28% residual sugar. Flavors of melon and tropical fruits with hints of orange and bananas. Good value at under $20.00. 1/2, $16.95 per bottle.

Lakewood Vineyards 2011 Riesling, Finger Lakes, NY — This wine is similar to the Knapp offering. It has medium to high acidity with aromas of melons and pineapples. It is on the sweet side of semi-sweet with flavors of apples, pears, and citrus with a slightly tangy finish akin to pineapple. While it rates the same as the Knapp in my book, it is a slightly more impressive value. 1/2, $12.99 per bottle.

Cardinal Point Winery 2010 Clay Hill Cabernet Franc, Monticello, VA — Deep color with aromas of dark cherries and plums with vegetal notes. Good acidity, soft tannins, and flavors of black cherries with dark fruits and pepper. 1/2, Appx. $20 per bottle.

Two More Quality 2011 Finger Lakes Rieslings from Lucas and Ravines

As I noted in my last post, every year, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (“FLWA”) sponsors a series of virtual tastings for the media to spread the word about the latest vintage of Finger Lakes rieslings. This is the second year that I have participated. So, here is the disclaimer: I received the wines reviewed in the post and six others as a free sample package from the FLWA. I promised no positive reviews, or any reviews at all, in exchange for these bottles.

Please read my first post in this series for a little background on the Finger Lakes Wine region. Tonight, I am writing about the next two wines I have tasted from the FLWA’s sample, Lucas Vineyards‘ 2011 Dry Riesling and Ravines Wine Cellars‘ 2011 Dry Riesling.

Lucas Vineyards began in 1974 with Ruth Lucas and her family left the Bronx to grow grapes. The family harvested their first grape crop in 1978 and released its first vintage in 1980, after Ruth became one of the first female winery owners in the region. Lucas now grows 14 grape varieties, including Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer.

Lucas’ 2011 Dry Riesling was the result of a hot, sunny season with late rains that required a quick harvest. It has 1.0% residual sugar (btw, here is a helpful article on understanding and measuring residual sugar). The wine has citrus aromas with subtle floral notes and hits the palate with high acidity. It has flavors of citrus fruits and unripened peaches. Simple, enjoyable, and a solid value, it is a good go-to wine for spicy faire, Asian food, or just as an every day sipping wine. 1/2, Appx. $13.99/bottle.

Ravines Wine Cellars was founded by Morten & Lisa Hallgren.  Morten Hallgren is the progeny of a wine making family from the Provence region of France, which is famous for its elegant rose wines. He spent his first harvest as an oenologist in Bordeaux before moving to the United States. He passed through wineries in West Texas and North Carolina before moving to the Finger Lakes to work at Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, a winery with which readers of this blog are very familiar.  The Hallgren’s purchased their shale stone-soiled property on the Eastern slopes of Keuka Lake in 2000. While the Finger Lakes is famous for its whites, Ravines’ reds have also received high praise, including multiple vintages of the winery’s Meritage blend.

Ravines 2011 Dry Riesling has 0.4% residual sugar, clocks in at 12.2% ABV, and was left on lighter lees until late February. It presents with aromas of tropical fruits and petroleum. A high acidity wine, it has flavors of limes, pineapples, and other tropical fruits. A subtle layer of minerality adds complexity. This is a crisp, refreshing wine that was an excellent compliment to jerk chicken. Another fine offering from a producer with a stellar reputation. , $16.95/bottle.

Fine Finger Lakes Riesling from Two Old Favorites: Swedish Hill & Fox Run

Every year, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (“FLWA”) sponsors a series of virtual tastings for the media to spread the word about the latest vintage of Finger Lakes rieslings. This is the second year that I have participated. So, here is the disclaimer: I received the wines reviewed in the post and six others as a free sample package from the FLWA. I promised no positive reviews, or any reviews at all, in exchange for these bottles.

The Finger Lakes is a wine region in upstate New York. Although it does not get the same press as wine-making regions in California, Oregon, and Washington, those of us who have tasted Finger Lakes wines over the years know that they consistently show high quality. Of the many grapes that grow well in the region, Riesling is undoubtedly the king. I have tasted a number of rieslings from the Finger Lakes that rival the best examples of that varietal from places like Germany and Australia. I could bore you with a fuller history of the region, but that work has been done for me.

Two of the first wineries I remember trying from the Finger Lakes were Swedish Hill Winery and Fox Run Vineyards. While they are old favorites of mine, it has been some time since I have had an opportunity to taste any of their wines. Fortunately, that dry spell (pun intended) has come to an end. This year, the Riesling package that I received from FLWA included Swedish Hill Winery’s 2011 Riesling and Fox Run Vineyards 2011 Reserve Riesling.

Swedish Hill Winery‘s 2011 vintage was its 25th Anniversary production. The Peterson Family’s experience with grapes, however, goes back to 1969, when they started growing grapes for sale to other local wine producers. Swedish Hill has collected any impressive number of awards and accolades along the way. Their success allowed them to open Goose Watch Winery in 1997 and Penguin Bay Winery in 2005.

Swedish Hill’s 2011 Reisling is semi-sweet, with 2.35% residual sugar and 11.1% ABV. It is pale yellow in color with aromas of pineapples, peaches, and hints of petroleum. It is well balanced, and the sweetness does not cross the line into cloying. This wine has a delicate mouth feel with moderate acidity and flavors of apples with tropical notes. It’s a good stand-alone wine on a warm day or with the right dish; the winemaker recommends turkey, ham, and fresh fruit, and I can add butternut squash soup to that list. This is a good example of a quality, approachable Finger Lakes riesling. It is also a good value. 3/4, $15.99 per bottle.

Fox Run Vineyards is high on Torrey Ridge overlooking Seneca Lake. Fox Run has 55 acres of vines, including varietals like Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. Fox Run practices minimal intervention winemaking, and Fox Run’s owner, Scott Osborn, is not only a player in the wine industry, but also hosts the Fox Run Glorious Garlic Festival.

Fox Run’s 2011 Reserve Riesling is semi-sweet, clocking in with 2.2% residual sugar and 13% alcohol by volume. The Vineyard’s notes reflect an odd growing season with heavy rains early, a hot and dry summer, and more rains near the end of the growing season, but with enough sun to fully ripen the grapes. Whatever the intricacies of the growing season, Fox Run handled them perfectly. This wine has citrus and latex aromas with hints of kiwi and pineapple. There is a bright, but not overpowering acidity. As the wine opens up is shows flavors of pineapple, melon, and tropical fruit salad, with a bit of unripened peach. Well-balanced and drinkable, this is an excellent example of why Finger Lakes riesling is some of the most underrated wine in the world. 1/4, $29.99 per bottle.

Swedish Hill Winery
4565 State Route 414
Romulus, NY 14541
(607) 403-0029
Twitter: @SwedishHillWine

Fox Run Vineyards
670 State Route 14
Penn Yan, NY 14527
Twitter: @foxrunvineyards

Recent Tastings

Dr. Frank 2010 Dry Riesling — Tropical and petroleum notes on the nose with more of the same on the palate. Bright acidity. A bit tart, but well structured. Not the best vintage that this excellent winery has created, but a solid wine nonetheless. Never hesitate to buy a bottle from this producer. 1/2

Domaine des Senechaux 2009 Chateauneuf-du-Pape AC — (received in a sample package from Wine Chateau) deep, rich color with aromas of currant, black cherries, pine trees, and spices. Medium bodied, with warm flavors of tart red fruits like raspberries and cranberries. The tannins are still a bit bitter and this wine could use more time in the bottle, but it can go now with the proper decanting and the right meal. 3/4

Keuka Lakes Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling

My fifth of six reviews of the 2010 Finger Lakes riesling vintage is of Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling. Keuka Lake’s vineyards are on the southern slope of Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes. Keuka Lake specializes in dry wines, particular rieslings and vignoles. These wines and its limited red offering are available for purchase online.

Keuka Lake’s 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling is a nearly colorless wine with tropical, floral (orange blossom), and nectarine aromas.  The wine has mildly tart citrus and peach flavors. It is delicate with moderate acidity, well-balanced, and it is a stand out in that it is on the dry side of semi-dry when compared to some of its sister wines from this vintage. It is a good sipping wine, and will work best with foods with flavors on the delicate side. 1/2, $18.00 per bottle.

Keuka Lake Vineyards
8882 County Route 76
Hammondsport, NY 14840
(607) 868-4100
Twitter: @KLVwines

Swedish Hill 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling

My fourth of six reviews of the 2010 Finger Lakes riesling vintage is of Swedish Hill Winery‘s 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling. Swedish Hill, and its sister winery, Goose Watch, are both located on Cayuga Lake. Swedish Hill opened in 1986 and, since that time, has produced numerous award winning wines that have been recognized in New York and beyond. Its selection of red, white, and sparkling wines are available for purchase online.

Swedish Hill’s 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling is straw colored with aromas of balloon rubber, pineapple, and peaches. The wine has high acidity with flavors of tropic fruits and melon. It is semi-sweet, but it maintains a relatively light mouth feel considering its sugar content. It will compliment a number of foods and is not so sweet so as to overwhelm a meal. Good wine and priced just about right. 3/4, Appx. $15.99 per bottle.

Swedish Hill Winery
4565 Rt 414
Romulus, NY 14541
(315) 549-8326
Twitter: @SwedishHillWine

Damiani Wine Cellars 2010 Davis Vineyard Dry Riesling

The third of my six reviews of the 2010 finger Lakes riesling vintage is of Damiani Wine Cellars 2010 Davis Vineyard Dry Riesling. (You can find my previous two reviews here and here.) Damiani’s vineyards are on Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes and produce cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, pinot noir, syrah, sauvignon blanc, and, of course, riesling. Its wines are available for purchase online.

Damiani’s 2010 Dry Riesling is a clear pale yellow with aromas of apple, pineapple, peach, and hints of petroleum. It has moderate to high acidity and crisp flavors of tart apples, grapefruit, and lemon. Given the tart (to my tastes) profile, this wine is best with food and this dry version has more versatility in pairing than its semi-dry counterparts (a fact reflected in a higher price point). I enjoyed the Damiani Dry Riesling very much with baked chicken and cave-aged gruyere. 1/4, $21.99 per bottle.

Damiani Wine Cellars
4704 Rt 414
Burdett, NY 14818
(607) 546-5557
Twitter: @DamianiWine